Western Crete, where the sea is green and the tavernas have no English menu.
Crete has two faces. One you know from brochures: Malia and Hersonissos, hotel complexes and full English breakfasts. We fly to the other end of the island, to Kissamos, where the promenade is one kilometre long and the tavernas bring you a carafe of wine without being asked.
Hotel Galini sits right on Mavros Molos beach, pebbles at the water line and sand ten metres further on. The sea here is cooler than on the south coast, around 22 degrees in June and 25 by late August. The wind blows almost every day, which sounds like a drawback until you are standing in 30 degree heat. The Papadakis family have run the hotel for three generations, dinner starts at seven and there are always three mains to choose from plus a salad buffet.
Two excursions are worth the money even though they are not in the price. Balos lagoon, reached by boat from Kissamos in 30 minutes, has water so shallow and so turquoise that it does not look real. Take the first boat at 10:20; the second one lands three hundred people at once. The other is the Samaria gorge: sixteen kilometres downhill, 1200 metres of descent, about six hours. It is not a stroll, but technically it is only walking on stones. Healthy knees will manage it. If yours are not, the easier Imbros gorge is eight kilometres and a fit seventy year old can do it. Our guide Michal walks the gorge with you and swims with you afterwards. The excursions are not in the price on purpose, because part of the group will go nowhere all week and that is a fair choice. Kissamos has four tavernas where lunch comes to under twelve euros including the wine, which they top up from a demijohn. Transport to Vienna airport is not included, though we can arrange it.
We take off from Vienna at 6:40 and land in Chania at 10:25 local time. The transfer to Kissamos takes 50 minutes. Check in around midday and the afternoon is for the sea. Dinner at seven, followed by a short briefing from Michal on the excursion options.
The beach in the morning; the sea sits around 23 degrees at this time of year. In the afternoon we walk the town: the harbour, the archaeological museum with its mosaics, and the market selling thyme and mountain tea. Michal will point out three tavernas worth your time and one to avoid. The evening is free, and anyone who wants heads to the promenade for a raki.
The boat leaves the harbour at 10:20, takes half an hour and calls at Gramvousa island with its Venetian fortress. You get three hours at Balos, where the water is knee deep even a hundred metres out. There is almost no shade, so a hat is essential. Cost 32 EUR.
A day with nothing planned, deliberately placed between Balos and Samaria. If you want, rent a scooter for 25 EUR a day and ride twenty minutes west to Falassarna beach, which has the best sunset on the island.
Departure at 5:30 and we reach the Omalos plateau by seven. The sixteen kilometre descent takes five to seven hours; the Iron Gates, the narrowest point, are three metres wide. At the end, in Agia Roumeli, there is the sea and a boat to take you out. Back by eight in the evening. Cost 45 EUR.
After Samaria your thighs will hurt. That is normal. The morning is the sea, which helps more than a massage. In the late afternoon we drive up to the village of Topolia for dinner at Manolis taverna: lamb from the wood oven, beans and raki he distils himself. Back by ten.
We leave at two so you still get the morning at the sea. In Chania we walk the Venetian harbour, the covered market and the lanes of the old town. The light by the lighthouse at dusk is the best of the day. Dinner on your own in the harbour and back by ten. Transport is included.
Breakfast, check out by ten, bags at reception. The sea is yours until one and so is the hotel shower. If you want to take home olive oil or thyme honey, buy it at the market by the harbour. Airport transfer at 14:00, take off at 17:05, landing in Bratislava around half past seven. Michal flies home with you.
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